Holy Week in Sevilla

When my youngest sons, decided to study abroad in Spain during their junior year, I immediately began finding reasons to visit. Just seven months earlier, I had walked the last 100 km of El Camino de Santiago with my oldest son. This time, it was an opportunity to experience our Catholic faith is new way through Holy Week in Sevilla, immersed in something deeply cultural, spiritual, and shared.

As I began planning my return to Europe, I had no idea how unique Holy Week in Sevilla would be. My research revealed a clear divide. Some warned: avoid it if you don’t like massive crowds, long waits and constant street closures. Others described it as a once-in-a-lifetime experience, profoundly moving if you were willing to embrace it. At first glance, it sounded almost like our very own Mardi Gras, but instead of parades, there were solemn, sacred processions. So, we took a leap of faith, choosing joy and adventure!

My boys and I were ready for the crowds, the unpredictability, and the beauty of experiencing Holy Week in a way none of us ever had before. There is something powerful about sharing new experiences with your children as they step into adulthood. We found ourselves lingering over tapas, sipping sangria and local wine, exchanging perspectives and noticing details the others might have missed. These simple moments became just as meaningful as the grand ones.

Together, we navigated the intricate rhythm of Holy Week in central Sevilla where eight to 10 processions unfold each day, continuing well past midnight. We learned to find the perfect viewing spots alongside locals, waiting patiently as the narrow streets filled with incense, music and quiet awe.

We watched more than a dozen processions, each one deeply moving. What struck us most was the devotion behind them. The floats, each bearing statues of the Blessed Mother Mary or Jesus in scenes from the Passion, were carried on the shoulders of men hidden beneath, moving in unison with quiet strength. The Nazarenes, hooded penitents, walked for miles- some barefoot and some carrying heavy crosses, as acts of gratitude and sacrifice.

Instead of beads or trinkets, we collected small prayer cards bearing images of Mary and Jesus from each procession, souvenirs of something far more meaningful. The musicians following each float added another layer of emotion, their music crescendo as the floats turned corners or were lifted above the crowds with strength and power. At times, the entire street would fall silent. Spectators made the sign of the cross as the procession passed. It was absolutely breathtaking. And in those moments, standing shoulder to shoulder in the crowd, I felt a deep sense of gratitude to witness such faith, and to share it with my sons.

We met many Sevillians along the way, forming quick but genuine connections, much like the camaraderie found Carnival season back home. My boys and I found our way navigating the crowds, making friends with strangers, sharing in the anticipation and reverence of each passing procession.

One of the most powerful moments of our trip was experiencing the Triduum in a completely new way. We ended our visit at Sevilla Cathedral (the Cathedral of St. Mary of the See), attending the Easter Vigil at 11p.m. was a moving journey from darkness into light inside the world’s largest Gothic cathedral. Standing with a full congregation, we witnessed more than 50 new Catholics enter the faith. It was a moment filled with hope, renewal and quiet joy.

In the end, Holy Week in Seville wasn’t just about witnessing tradition, but connection. Connection to faith, to culture and most importantly, to each other. We laughed, and at times, we were moved to tears. One of my sons briefly lost his luggage, something we now jokingly call a “St. Anthony moment.” We got lost more than once, walked miles each day, stayed out for over 12 hours at a time, and ate at wonderfully late hours. Sunsets became part of our itinerary. We searched for the best tapas, wandered far beyond our planned routes and visited churches from the 15^th and 16^th century that we discovered along the way.

Every step, every moment, became part of something greater. This was a journey not just across Spain, but deeper into faith, family and the blessing of being together. Getting to see my twins in their element, seeing them not just as my “babies” but strong, independent faithful loving young men! Grateful to have been given this chance to share this trip with them. May you also take a leap of faith and join the adventure!!